A Day In Shirakawago

As usual, we woke up very early in the morning. We got ready and then headed downstairs for breakfast. At K's House Takayama Oasis, we loved the kitchen and the lounge area which looked so neat and clean and aesthetically pleasing .... 

Lounge/living area at the hostel ..

There was free freshly-brewed coffee at 7.00 a.m. ... 

A typical day's breakfast for us .... 

The breads were from the convenience store; we would normally buy them the evening before; the sandwiches were kept in the fridge and we would toast them for a while the next morning ...

 The sandwiches were very yummy, this one had teriyaki chicken and egg mayo in it .... 

The breads and buns from the convenience stores were actually very good - comparable to those we get from the bakery back home - the pastry was usually soft, while they do not skim on the ingredients. 

In the kitchen that morning, we met an elderly couple from Singapore. They were very friendly, and we chatted for a while about our homes and families... This couple visited Japan annually for their holidays for the past 15 years, and suggested to us some other parts of Japan they felt were worth visiting - Hokkaido, for example, was a very enjoyable place to visit according to them. 

It was a cold wet morning. According to the weather forecast on tv that we watched the night before, it would be snowing at 6.00 a.m. and raining the whole day. Darn. 

Heat packs

I bought these from Daiso back in Kuching .... ironical huh? Since I could just buy them from any Daiso outlet in Japan at an even cheaper price. Lol. I stuck a heat pack on my back and put one in my pocket for extra warmth.

We took a walk that morning to the Miyagawa Morning Market. There was snow on rooftops and at the road sides. Indeed cold ... and damp too.

Miyagawa River

Miyagawa River

A bit of snow on the grass along the banks 

A typical stall  

Not sure if it was too early or that it was raining, but there weren't many stalls set up yet, but there was nothing much to see at the Miyagawa Morning Market at 8.00 a.m. I was rather disappointed.

Miyagawa Morning Market 

So we decided to head straight to Shirakawa-go, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We'd bought the bus tickets the day before. So we queued up for the 9.50 a.m. bus at the Nohi Bus Terminal. There were 8 open-seating or free-seating buses a day to Shirakawago - 8.50 a.m., 9.50 a.m., 10.50 a.m., 11.50 a.m., 1.50 p.m., 2.50 p.m., 5.50 p.m., 7.00 p.m.; The return buses were timed at 6.43 a.m., 10.45 a.m., 11.15 a.m., 1.15 p.m., 3.15 p.m., 4.15 p.m., 5.30 p.m., 7.43 p.m.

And so the bus took us through snow-covered mountains, the whole journey took 50 minutes.

Brrr .... cold but so pretty ....  

The bus' final destination was the Shirakawa-go Bus Terminal, situated right at the edge of the Ogimachi Village, the place we would be exploring today. The bus terminal shared the same space as the Tourist Information Centre, where I grabbed a walking map and we set out in the rain .... 

Ogimachi Village, Shirakawa-go
First view of the gassho-zukuri houses this place was so famous for ...

"Gassho" means putting the palms of the hands together in prayer; these gassho-style houses have steep thatched roofs at a 45 - 60 degrees angle; no nails were used in the construction of these houses; it is believed that snow falls from the roof much easier at such an angle since this is an area which experiences heavy snowfall in winter. 

It was pleasant to explore the village on foot, at a leisurely pace

Lovely houses giving a rustic feel ...

Aiming to take artistic shots of the houses .... lol .... 

Scarecrow? Horsecrow? Hmn .... 

A bit of snow covering the roof and parts of the ground ... 

We walked and walked in the drizzle, taking photos and just admiring the setting and the scenery ...

Walking along the main road ... not sure where it led to ....

We were more in awe of the snowcapped mountain in the background ....

At the village, there was a suspension bridge across the Shokawa River ...

 Not much water in the river .... 

When you get to the other side, there's a Heritage Museum with an admission fee - you can learn more of the gassho-zukuri houses and visit the interiors of the houses. We chose not to go to the museum.  

And when we were tired ... we sat down and snacked on .... 

Gohei Mochi

Croquet, ¥250

We did go inside one of the houses in the village itself - Wada House; entry was ¥300. This was the family house of the first mayor in Shirakawa-go ....

The living area was spacious!

The hearth

This house was pretty large and was 4 storeys high .... and we could climb to the 3rd floor; the 4th floor was out of bounds.

The steep steps up to the 3rd floor ....

The roof structure from the inside, the 3rd floor

No nails were used, we could see how the beams were tied together.

View from the top floor of Wada House

View from the top of Wada House 

Lacquer-ware used by the Wada family

Wada House, the largest gassho-zukuri house in the village 

We then headed to the shuttle bus depot, and took a 3-minute bus ride to the observatory. Each trip cost ¥200. 

Ogimachi Village, Shirakawa-go

The entire village which we explored on foot that day .... 

At the bus terminal, we queued up for the 3.15 p.m. bus ..... and reached Takayama at about 4.05 p.m. ..... and we were cold and hungry ..... and we just popped into a small eatery near our hostel for some food .... 

Chinese noodles

Katsudon, ¥880

A large bowl of rice .... pork cutlet and egg, topped with shredded roasted nori

After dinner, we went back to the hostel to thaw ..... we were all damp and cold and could not wait to get inside. 

Takayama, Sanmachi Suji & Hida Beef

It was 8 - 9 degrees today, so cold and windy in Kyoto. Early morning, we bought a train ticket from Kiyomizu-gojo to Kyoto Station via JR Tokufuji for 270. It was just about 7.00 a.m., and the crowd in the JR train was scary. The train came at 7.04 a.m. but it was already so packed. Despite that, we squeezed ourselves into the carriage .... luckily Kyoto Station was just a stop away. 

At Kyoto Station, we had to look for the Hachigojucho Exit where we would board our bus at the F3 platform. The problem was the platform was out in the open .... and it was really very cold. I was in 4 layers and it did not feel sufficient enough. Sigh. Furthermore, our bus came late. It was supposed to depart at 8.20 a.m., but I think it was subject to the traffic conditions .... our bus only came at 8.40 a.m., and we thankfully climbed in ... phew! 

The view from Hachigojucho Exit

Another view

JR Kyoto Station was just behind us ...

So our bus made its way to Takayama at the Gifu Prefecture. It made a few stops and the entire journey took about 4 hours. 

Takayama is called 高山  Gao Shan or High Mountain. It is located in the Japanese Alps. It is a area of heavy snowfall and we did witness a lot of snow on our way there ....

Snow-covered foliage on our way to Takayama ....

We got off at the Nohi Bus Terminal at Takayama, and our hostel was just opposite the bus terminal so we did not have to drag our bags for very far. K's House Takayama Oasis. We loved this hostel - everything was looking modern and aesthetically pleasing. The staff were great too. They were helpful and provided advice whenever we seeked it. We dumped our bags there .... and went out.

First stop. It's back to the bus station to buy our bus tickets to Shirakawa-go. Normally a round trip would cost ¥4420 per pax. We got a discount because of a voucher the bus driver handed out during our journey from Kyoto to Takayama. So we bought 1 ticket at ¥3910 and 2 tickets at ¥4420 and that averaged out to be ¥4250 per pax.

After that, we walked around Takayama. It was a small little town, and it was so pleasant to walk around ....

Loving these bronze plates on the ground that showed us where to go ..... 

Red Nakabashi street at Miyagawa River

A must-visit place is Sanmachi Suji, where old wooden houses are preserved; now they are mostly converted into shops and eateries ....

Felt like going back in time ....

These houses are now very well-preserved ...

I'd imagine an intricately landscaped garden beyond those wooden fences ..... 

Inside a miso shop .... 

I drank 2 tiny cups of miso soup here .... yums and helped to warm me up if just for a little while .... 

We saw many people carrying sushi in their hands .... so we were curious. Further down, we saw a small shop selling Hida Beef Sushi. We were keen to try .... 

Hida Beef Sushi, ¥600

Well in fact, we see lots of Hida Beef restaurants in Takayama. Well, indeed it's a must-eat here. Hida Beef is top quality beef procured from black-haired Japanese cattle. In fact, its quality rivals Kobe Beef.

However, the prices were crazy expensive (for us), starting from ¥4,000 per 100g. Outside one particular restaurant, we saw that prices could go up to ¥15,000 per 100g depending on the cut and quality of the beef.

The restaurant was closed ... so we debated if we should come out later on for dinner. Meanwhile, we walked more around town ....

Kokubun-ji

The temple was almost deserted at this time .... 

 The pagoda outside of kokubun-ji

Just opposite the temple at an intersection was a shop selling meats. We went inside to browse at the beautiful meats in the chillers ... and we got a brilliant idea. Why not we buy them and cook them ourselves?

We went back to our hostel and checked in. On our way to the convenience store, we chanced upon another meat shop near our hostel ... and we bought the meats for real.

We bought ¥6912 worth of meat .... look at the beautiful marbling on that piece of wagyu steak; that piece of steak was ¥3600 yen per 100 g but it was so worth it. 

And pan-fried it in its own fat, with just a dash of salt and pepper ... 

Homecooked 

And they were so good, especially the wagyu steak ... soft and tender and melted in the mouth and with rich beefy flavour; totally awesome and unforgettable. So delicious! And so sated. :P

Arashiyama, Nijo-jo, Ginkakuji, Kinkakuji

Taking a JR train seemed more straightforward if one wanted to go to Arashiyama. Kiyomizu-gojo to Tofukuji to Kyoto Station to the Saga-Arashiyama Station. It would cost ¥510 yen.

With our KTP, going to Arashiyama required for us to change trains at a couple of stations as well. On top of that, we did not save much. We went from Kiyomizu-gojo to Sanjo station where we switched to the Tozai subway line and rode to Uzumasa-Tenjingawa and then here, we got on a tram on the Randen-Arashiyama line to Arashiyama. We paid ¥420 on the Randen line. The rest was covered by our KTP.

But Arashiyama was great! If I were to go again, I would choose to spend the whole day here because there was so much to see. This trip, however, we aimed to go to the infamous bamboo groves ....

We were glad that we came early, because it was so quiet and there weren't many people around ...

Walking and enjoying the greenery and the calm and quiet atmosphere .... 

Arashiyama is famous for its bamboo paths; and there was a little park that had trails like this ... just walk there and enjoy the quietness among the greens .... 

Sagano Bamboo Road
But this is the most famous bamboo path in Arashiyama, just after the Tenryuji Temple

You have to be there to experience it yourself. It's so amazingly beautiful! 

Just around the corner of Sagano Bamboo Road was the Okochi Sanso Garden .... and walk further down there's the Jojakko-ji Temple; all these with admission fee .... but if you do not wish to go in ... just walk along the paths and enjoy the cool winter climate and the beautiful scenery. 

Love these pathways that are devoid of people .... 

Ogura-Ike Pond

Loved those colourful lanterns on the ground ....

Tenryu-ji Temple, a UNESCO Heritage Site
I think this would be worth a visit if you have the time ... 

After Arashiyama, we went to Nijo-jo ...

Nijo-jo beyond the walls .... 

Then we went to the Kyoto Imperial Palace Gardens after that; We stopped at the Marutamachi Station, and walked to the gardens. It was really very big .... and our tired legs were only able to bring us to a very small section of the garden even though we walked for a long time.

The vicinity of Kyoto Imperial Palace

A huge sprawling garden at the Kyoto Imperial Palace

At the Imadegawa Subway Station, there was bus to go to Ginkaku-ji .... 

We were fascinated by this signboard at bus station; the little yellow bus symbols actually moved! So it actually tells us when the bus was coming!

Each trip on the bus was ¥230; but with our KTP, we did not have to pay. It wasn't difficult to ride the bus as there was a screen in the bus which indicated which bus stop we were stopping at everytime. Ours was the Ginkaku-ji stop .... We got off and from there it was a short walk to the site.

I realised at Ginkaku-ji that I'd mistaken it for Kinkaku-ji. Darn. Kinkaku-ji - the Golden Pavillion - was the one I wanted to visit and not the Ginkaku-ji - the Silver Pavillion.

On the way to Ginkaku-ji

Anyway, there were again many shops lining the way to Ginkaku-ji .... so we ate instead. 

Nikuman, ¥400

At a small shop, we ate our late lunches .... 

Katsudon, ¥800

 

Tanin Don, ¥700

Braised beef with egg on rice

To get to Kinkaku-ji, we took the bus back to the Demachiyanagi Station, and from there we boarded another bus to Kinkaku-ji.

And lastly, we went to Kinkaku-ji. It took my breath away ... so beautiful was the golden pavillion.

Kinkaku-ji; 

From Kinkaku-ji, we took a bus to the Kitaoji Bus Terminal, and then took the train to Sanjo and switched to the Keihan line back to Kiyomizu-gojo.

Kiyomizu-dera, Fushimi Inari & Nishiki Market

Today we were using our KTP to Kyoto Station ... but because we were using a Limited Express train, we needed to purchase a limited express ticket for ¥510. So, we got to sit down at our assigned seats all the way to Kyoto.

Brrrr. Kyoto was cold. And the wind was strong. 6 - 10 degrees. We shivered as soon as we exited Kyoto Station. Immediately, I had to put on another extra layer of clothing. I'd been alright with 2 layers since arriving in Japan - a thermal and a fleece was normally sufficient. Today, I had to put on my windbreaker on top of my fleece.

We were told to go to the 3rd floor of Kyoto Tower. There was an information centre there ... and the staff were all very friendly and very helpful. Hats off to them. 

Here, we bought bus tickets on the Nohi Bus to take us to Takayama, a highland town in Gifu Prefecture. Initially, we wanted to buy the tickets online ... but did not quite dare to. We tried to buy them when we landed at Osaka Kansai International Airport the other day, but they did not sell them there. We would be going to Takayama in 2 days.  

I enquired about the location of our hostel, because I did not want to get lost like I did in Nara - and the staff printed for me a map for reference. Then, he advised us on how to get there in the fastest possible way and helped us buy tickets too! We were taking the JR train from Kyoto Station to Tofukuji and then changing to the Keihan line to Kiyomizu-gojo station. 

We found our hostel without making any mistakes this time. And there wasn't any need to get the access code to the building in fact. A staff opened the door for us. He was a Caucasian and was rather friendly and told us to return as early as 2 p.m. to check in as it wasn't a busy day for them at the hostel. That was really nice of him. 

Anyway, we dumped our bags and headed to Kiyomizu-dera. Now, Kyoto was very touristy. There were SO MANY PEOPLE at each of the attractions we visited. I'd not come across so many people at the attractions in Osaka or even Nara ... but Kyoto was different. In fact, there was no need to check the map. Just follow the crowd and you would get to the right place. Lol. 

In Kyoto also, there were many kimono rentals ... you can just rent a kimono and wear it all day to visit all the traditional sites. They'd even help you to set your hair! There was no feeling shy about it because lots of people were doing the same thing! I'd do it too if I had a good photographer with me to take my photos. Hee ....

Kiyomizu-dera was about 15 minutes from our hostel .... we had to climb a up to a slope. There were many shops and eateries lining the street along the way. I noticed many shops selling ceramics - lovely cups and saucers and plates in traditional Japanese designs. I just wish I could buy a few home! 

Kiyomizu-dera

See the throng of people! It's like that everywhere in Kyoto! 

Kiyomizu-dera, with its buildings built between the 15th and 17th century is preserved as a UNESCO World Heritage site today. 

As we were walking down in the shopping alley ...... 

Long queue at this cinammon choux shop - pretty crispy choux with intense matcha filling

Nikuman

There's burdock and premium beef inside .... ¥450

Cuttlefish fishcake, ¥450

Next up, we went to Fushimi Inari Shrine - another must-visit place in Kyoto. The shrine dates back to the 8th Century, a very important shrine dedicated to Inari, the Shinto God of Rice. However, people were more attracted to the Torii Gates that line the trails ....

Fushimi Inari is famous for these thousands of red torii gates! So many of them all the way up to the slopes at the back of the shrine ...  

Again, there was plenty to eat along the way .... little stalls were set up on the way to the shrine selling all sorts of yummy stuff. I took some photos .....

Can't leave out the mochi

Beef skewers
They looked pretty good, but we did not try them ...

Daifuku

And finally, we went to Nishiki Market. We got off at the Gion-Shijo Station, and it was crazy cold ... Brrr .....

Kamogawa River

From Sanjo Bridge; so windy and cold on that day .... 

Some interesting alleyways at the Gion area ....

Oooh .... the shopping district in the heart of Gion

Nishiki Market

It's a long, long market that spans a few streets too; its alley is smaller and cramped with people; we got to taste many stuff here too! I do live the vibrant atmosphere here too! 

One of the must-eats is McDonald's .....

At only ¥500, I had a BBQ Pork Burger, McNuggets with Mustard Sauce and Orange Juice; unlike back home, a set meal automatically came with a soft drink and fries; here I got to choose whether I wanted fries, nuggets or salad and I got to choose my drink as well. So cool. 

Loving the pork burger that we don't get back home; reminded me of Ninja-Joe ... heh ... I liked the soft and flavourful beef patty which is slightly on the sweet side; it tasted even better with some mustard sauce .... 

Kyoto was seriously cold that day .... It got to me and when I got back to the hostel, I needed to warm up with a hot ginger drink ....

We did not go to the Gion Old Street, which was just too bad. It's my second regret this trip. :P