Well, I was at the Open Air Market. It's not really open, though. It's got a roof over it. Anyway, that's how this place is called since time immemorial. The market houses a stretch of stalls, all nondescript-looking. In fact, if you ask me .... everything here seems to look and feel grubby. The unlighted corners of the building ... some unopened stalls ... mismatched tables and stools. It does not just seem to be an ideal place to eat.
The Open Air Market is famous for a few dishes. It is, however, even more famous for the fact that it is infested with rats. And large ones too! I've seen them with my own eyes, scurrying into one dark corner of the market. A more adventurous one I had seen scampering across a table top.
Despite this, people never fail to flock to this place ... whether day or night, whether young or old. Their aim is to sample some of the deliciousness, uniquely available at the Open Air Market.
One attraction is Guang Xiang Ju, a stall that churns out legendary bowls of chicken porridge and dry-tossed noodles. It is so popular among the locals that its menu is synonymous with the market. Just say "Open Air Porridge" or "Open Air Noodles", and everyone will invariably imagine a piping hot bowl of fragrant porridge, not too watery and not too thick; or strands of smooth noodles coated with mind-blowing flavours of lard and seasonings, and topped with slivers of char siew. Besides the porridge and noodles, people also love the Steamed Chicken that they sell.
"Difficult to wait," people tell me.
Yes it's true. The stall only operates at night. 7.30 p.m. to be exact. I was there at about 7.20 p.m. and there were already many tables occupied. There was no food on the tables, though. Only drinks. For people were waiting for Guang Xiang Ju to open. At 7.25 p.m., the operators arrived. While they got ready to start their business, a queue started to form. They had not even turned on the lights yet!
After placing the order, another round of waiting began as they served table by table. That aside, they had to attend to those taking away their orders. There were people taking away packs and packs of noodles! We sat and observed while the operators went about their business. Each had a different task to do in the food assembly line ... and they did them with quiet deliberation.
"They all look alike," said my friend. Well, yeah .... it is a known fact that they are siblings.
About 15 minutes later, our food arrived.
Chicken Porridge, RM2.50
It looks plain. It feels light. It smells fragrant of sesame oil. It tastes very savoury. And this is comfort food. Yum.
Dry noodles, RM2.50
It looks great. It smells great. The noodles are very springy and fragrant. It only takes one slurp to experience that burst of savouriness in your mouth. Absolutely delicious. If I could only eat ONE bowl, and if I were to choose between the porridge and the noodles, I think I much prefer the noodles. Highly recommended.
Steamed Chicken, RM10.00 portion
The chicken is a great accompaniment to the porridge and the noodles. They were fresh and tender, juicy and succulent, and flavoured with fragrant sesame oil. My friends and I enjoyed it. Diners can have their platter customised with innards as well.
It was hot and cramped. The large tattoed man from the next table brushed against us when he shifted on his seat. The floor was uneven. The tables rocked. But everyone was tucking into bowls and bowls of noodles, porridge and steamed chicken, delight painted all over their faces.
What makes a good meal? Familiar flavours at this place which is so full of character.
Very good write-up.
ReplyDeleteagree with sintaicharles :D
ReplyDeleteThanks a lot, Orcagal!
ReplyDeleteWaah .. the kolo mee's portion so small. 2-3 spoonful & it's gone. :))
ReplyDeleteThe thing is, it's quite difficult to find delicious kolo mee here in Miri. Most lack that fragrance that is so important in a good bowl of kolo mee. This one here, meets my standard. It was delicious. Can eat 2 bowl at one go!!
ReplyDelete